With summer now in full swing, the importance of using SPF
could not be greater! Exposure to ultra violet light from sunlight whether it
is UVA or UVB accounts for 90% of the symptoms of premature skin aging. Lines,
wrinkles, age or brown spots and scarring are some of the most common concerns
our guests have when coming for facial treatments.
SPF is your secret weapon!
It takes 15 to 20 years for sun damage to
appear and prevention is so much easier than cure for the above mentioned
concerns.
How it starts
The sun's UVA rays actually penetrate into the Dermis which
is the deepest layer of your skin. They wreak havoc with collagen by breaking
it down and causing disorganization of the fibers and cross-linking. Cross-linking of collagen is the result of continuous break down and repair, once the
collagen fibers are compromised they heal in crisscross formations which
ultimately lead to lines and wrinkles as they simply can’t support the skin.
As
if this thought is not scary enough, within minutes of sun exposure, enzymes called Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP) begin to breakdown not only collagen
but elastin too, further weakening the skin's support structure. UV radiation is
also one of the major creators of free radical damage. Free radicals are
unstable oxygen molecules that only have one electron instead of two. In an
effort to complete itself, the free radical will steal an electron from
another molecule. That molecule is then left lonely and will scavenge from
another, resulting in a never ending cycle These rebellious molecules stimulate the
production of MMP, further breaking down collagen. The continuous cycle of
molecules behaving in this manner changes the genetic material of the cells
which can lead to cancer.
Melanocytes
Misbehaving cells called melanocytes are what are
responsible for unwanted discoloration of your skin. When exposed to UV light,
melanocytes immediately start to produce more melanin to absorb the UV rays in
an effort to protect the skin. Melanin is your body’s natural sunscreen and the
substance responsible for giving your skin its color. This is why your skin gets darker when you are more exposed to the sun.
Repetitive sun exposure alone is not responsible for these cells misbehaving; the problem is
exaggerated by medication, illness, pregnancy and hormone changes. Misbehaving
cells will overproduce melanin and deposit it in clusters resulting in darker
patches on the skin mostly referred to as age spots. In the case of damaged or inflamed skin
caused by acne, cuts or abrasions, the melanocytes are merely being nice and
produce more melanin to protect the skin from the sun. It is not the wounds
themselves that cause the problem but rather the exposure to UV light in the
sensitive healing process.
Sunscreen tips
All of this being said, now you need to know the plan of
defense! Choose your sunscreen wisely.
- Only sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher can claim to reduce the risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging.
- The factor of the sunscreen is not the amount of protection that you get in the given moment but is the length of time you can stay in the sun without burning; for example, a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will delay the onset of sunburn 15 times longer - in a person who would otherwise burn in 10 minutes to burn in 150 minutes.
- It takes 20-30 minutes for sunscreen to be absorbed by your skin and thus to be effective.
- Sunscreen should always be the last product applied for maximum protection as the water content of your make up or moisturizer can break it down.
- The daily use of a low SPF is proven to be more effective then the sporadic use of a higher factor.
- Your make up or moisturizer containing SPF is not sufficient alone; for best results, layer your products containing SPF.
- When you are out in the sun for extended periods the key to using sunscreen effectively is the reapplication not the SPF itself. An SPF 15 will filter out 93% of UVB rays; SPF 30 filters out 97%; SPF 50 filters out 98%. The percentage is of such a minimal increase that anything higher than an SPF 50 really isn’t necessary.
- The key to picking a good sunscreen is to look to the ingredients; SPF measures the amount of UVB filtration and UVA protection comes from ingredients such as avobenzone, titanium or zinc oxide. Combining an SPF 15 with one of the previous mentioned ingredients is the best way forward.
- UVB protection primarily protects against burning; UVA protection protects you from the potential damages in the deepest layer of your skin.
- The strength of UVB rays is dependent on the time of year and the time of day, UVB does not penetrate glass however does reflect from water and snow.
- UVA rays are constantly present and can even penetrate clothes and glass therefore your optimum plan of defense against aging is to wear a well-rounded SPF every day of the year.
- Look for added technology of vitamins and antioxidants to also fight free radical damage and at least remember the face neck and decollete and apply SPF every morning.
Look after your skin and your skin will look after you.
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